For centuries, pearls stood alone as the world's most coveted and irreplicable gemstones. Their sheer beauty and enigmatic origins ensured they were highly prized, gracing the statues and illustrations of ancient nobility and continuing to captivate hearts today. With the advent of cultured pearls, these lustrous gems, with their unparalleled iridescence, are now cherished and worn by millions globally.

At Carathea, we understand that every piece of jewellery tells a story. The history of pearls is a truly incredible tale of natural wonder, human endeavour, and enduring beauty. Join us as we dive deep into this fascinating past, exploring how these exquisite gems are formed, their profound meanings, and why they remain one of the most important gemstones in the world of fine jewellery.

A Timeless Allure: The Ancient History of Pearls

Pearls hold a unique place as the earliest gemstones known to humankind, discovered long before the techniques for cutting and polishing other gems were developed. They emerged mysteriously from the sea, perfectly formed by nature, captivating early civilisations with their innate beauty.

References to pearls are woven throughout history and various cultures:

• Ancient Texts: Religious texts, like Matthew 13: 45-46, describe the "kingdom of God" being like a merchant seeking "exquisite pearls," highlighting their immense value. In Islam, heaven is depicted as adorned with luminous pearls.
• Mythology: The Greek Goddess of love, beauty, and fertility, Aphrodite (Venus in Roman mythology), famously rose from the sea in a shell, linking pearls to notions of purity and divine birth.
• Royal Decree: Julius Caesar, in ancient Rome, famously declared a law that only aristocrats were permitted to wear pearls, underscoring their status as the ultimate symbol of wealth and power. It's even believed he invaded Great Britain partly in the hope of finding pearls!
• Status Symbols: In times past, when pearls could not be replicated, being seen draped in them unequivocally signified immense wealth and social standing. Paintings from the "pearl age" in museums and stately homes depict nobility literally dripping in pearls, sending a powerful message of opulence and influence.

Pearls were even associated with both life and death. In Buddhist and Taoist traditions, they were, and sometimes still are, placed in the mouths of the deceased. This practice was believed to help "light the way" to the afterlife with the pearl's wonderful lustre and even to help "bribe" their way into the next world.

Royal Museums Greenwich, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The Inner Beauty: What Are Pearls and How Are They Formed?

A pearl is the only gemstone formed by a living creature – a mollusc. The incredible process begins when an irritant, such as a grain of sand, a piece of grit, or even a tiny worm, finds its way into the mollusc's protective shell. Since the mollusc has a soft body, it perceives this foreign body as an irritation. As a defence mechanism, the mollusc begins to lay down successive layers of "nacre," a shimmering, crystalline substance made of calcium carbonate. These layers build, one upon another, gradually enveloping the irritant. It is these concentric layers of nacre that give the pearl its unique lustre and make it one of the most coveted gemstones.

The formation process can take anywhere from six months to as long as four years, depending on the type of mollusc and desired pearl size.

The High Cost of Natural Pearls & The Threat of Extinction

For centuries, the exquisite beauty and irreplicable nature of natural pearls meant pearl jewellery was extraordinarily expensive. A simple string of natural pearls could cost a fortune. The length of time required for a pearl to form, coupled with the immense danger faced by pearl divers who risked their lives retrieving shells from the depths, made large-scale natural pearl harvesting slow, expensive, and perilous.

Tragically, this relentless pursuit of pearls led to a massive decline, and even near extinction, of oyster beds in many traditional farming areas. Divers often discarded shells that didn't contain pearls, exacerbating the problem. Thankfully, pearl production is now much better controlled, with a strong focus on sustainable practices to protect mollusc populations.

The Dawn of Cultured Pearls: Mikimoto's Vision

The true game-changer in the history of pearls was the development of cultured pearls. The process of encouraging a mollusc to produce a pearl artificially has roots going back hundreds of years, but it wasn't until the early 1900s that it began on a mass scale.

A pivotal figure in this revolution was Kokichi Mikimoto, a Japanese jeweller with an ambitious dream: that every woman in the world could own a pearl necklace. At a time when natural pearls were prohibitively expensive for all but the wealthiest, this was a revolutionary vision. In 1893, after years of dedicated experimentation, Mikimoto succeeded in creating a cultured pearl by carefully inserting an irritant into the Akoya pearl oyster. He further refined the nucleation process to form perfectly round pearls, earning him the title "father of cultured pearls." Today, Mikimoto Pearl Company remains revered for its gem-quality Akoya cultured pearls.

The Different Types of Pearls

Modern pearl farming has flourished globally, producing a stunning variety of pearls:

• Akoya Pearls: Originating from Japan, Akoya pearls are renowned for their exquisite round shape and high lustre, often displaying a classic white, cream, or silvery-pink hue. They are often sought after for their perfectly round, mirror-like surface.
• Tahitian Pearls: Hailing from the French Polynesian Islands, Tahitian pearls are famous for their remarkable array of dark colours, including black, aubergine, deep green, purple, and grey. They are formed in the black-lipped Pinctada Margaritifera oyster. Today, cultured Tahitian pearls account for approximately 20% of the global pearl market.
• South Sea Pearls: Cultivated in the warm waters of Southern Australia, Indonesia, and the Philippines, South Sea pearls are among the largest and most valuable. They are celebrated for their soft, satiny lustre and come in beautiful shades of white, silvery-white, and golden hues. These oysters, particularly the Pinctada Maxima, also produce an iridescent mother of pearl inner lining, historically used for buttons and other objects.
• Freshwater Pearls: Primarily farmed in freshwater lakes and rivers, particularly in China, cultured freshwater pearls offer a vast array of shapes, sizes, and colours, making them a more accessible option for pearl jewellery. Modern cultivation techniques have significantly improved their quality, allowing them to rival the beauty and lustre of some natural pearls.

The Diverse Colours of Pearls

While classic white and cream pearls remain universally loved, the world of pearls now offers a dazzling spectrum of colours. Tahitian pearls, for instance, introduced the rich beauty of black, aubergine, and peacock green pearls to the market. Today, by introducing coloured minerals into the mollusc's shell during cultivation, pearl farms can produce cultivated pearls in almost any colour, allowing for incredibly diverse pearl jewellery designs.

Baroque Pearls: Embracing Natural Uniqueness

Not all pearls are perfectly round. Baroque pearls are uniquely shaped pearls, characterised by their irregular, non-spherical forms. Once considered less desirable than perfectly round pearls, baroque pearls have soared in popularity in recent years. Their organic, often abstract shapes, coupled with their individualistic charm, make them a favourite for contemporary jewellery brands UK, offering a unique aesthetic that celebrates natural imperfections.

Pearls as Wedding Gemstones

The ancient Greeks believed pearls were wedding gemstones, said to protect the bride from tears and bring the groom happiness, promoting harmony within the marriage. Today, pearl jewellery remains a highly favoured choice for bridal adornment. Representing chastity, innocence, purity, good luck, and abundance, the soft, flattering colours of pearls beautifully complement a bride's wedding dress, highlighting her at her radiant best. With the accessibility of cultured pearls, elegant options are available for every bride, from elaborate pearl necklaces to simple, timeless single pearl pendants or classic strings of pearls.

Famous Lovers of Pearls & Their Modern Revival

Throughout history, countless powerful and iconic women have adored pearls, inspiring many to emulate their style. Famous pearl enthusiasts include Cleopatra, Queen Elizabeth II, and Elizabeth Taylor (who owned the legendary La Peregrina pearl). Audrey Hepburn, the epitome of elegance, was rarely seen without her pearls, and Coco Chanel famously popularised the use of cultured pearls and even pearl-like beads in her collections, setting new trends.

Los Angeles Times, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

While pearls experienced a dip in popularity in the mid-20th century, seen as somewhat "old-fashioned," they have enjoyed a magnificent revival in recent decades. Today, pearl jewellery is embraced by all ages, transcending traditional boundaries. This resurgence has been significantly boosted by influential male celebrities like Harry Styles, who have boldly championed the men wearing pearls trend. This shift towards an androgynous look means it's now perfectly normal for men to explore and embrace pearl necklaces and other forms of pearl jewellery.

Styles of Pearl Jewellery

From the minimalist elegance of a single pearl stud or pearl pendant to the classic sophistication of a string of pearls (be it a single strand or multiple strands), the array of pearl jewellery designs is vast. Pearls also look stunning when set into jewellery framed by other precious gems, creating dazzling contrasts.

In Conclusion: The Enduring Legacy of Pearls

The history of pearls is long, rich, and truly illustrious. We are fortunate to live in an age where these beautiful gemstones are accessible to all. Inherently flattering, versatile enough to complement any outfit, and imparting a timeless elegance to any attire, pearls offer a unique blend of natural beauty and profound historical significance.

Explore our exquisite collection of pearl necklaces, pearl earrings, pearl bracelets, and pearl rings at Carathea, and find a piece that connects you to this incredible legacy. Remember to consult our guide on The Best Way to Care for Pearls to ensure your treasured pieces maintain their beauty for generations.