Brooches are one of the oldest forms of jewellery in the world — yet they are very much back in fashion. From modern catwalks to red carpets and contemporary jewellery collections, the brooch has re-emerged as a powerful statement accessory.
Originally created as a practical way to fasten clothing, brooches gradually evolved into decorative and symbolic pieces, reflecting status, loyalty, love and remembrance. Across centuries, different cultures shaped brooch design using new materials, gemstones and metalworking techniques.
In this guide, we explore the fascinating history of brooches — from their earliest beginnings in the Bronze Age to the meaningful and expressive jewellery pieces we wear today.
The Origins of the Brooch
Before buttons, zips or hooks existed, people relied on pins to secure their clothing. These early fastenings were the forerunners of the brooch.
As craftsmanship developed, these simple pins became more elaborate. Decorative metals, enamelling and gemstones were gradually introduced, transforming brooches from purely functional items into objects of personal expression.
Early Brooches and the Fibula
Bronze and Iron Age Brooches
The earliest brooches date back to the Bronze Age, with simple metal pins used to hold garments together. During the Iron Age, metalworking techniques improved, and brooches began to be made from tin and copper alloys, often in a single piece.
The Fibula
By around 400 BC, brooches became known as fibulae — a name later given to the leg bone due to its resemblance to the curved pin shape.
Image Credit: Unknown, Bronze fibula brooch of the Roman period found in Żelechowo, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
Archaeological evidence shows that red enamels were already being used at this time, and many early fibulae have been discovered across Britain and Europe. Common early forms included:
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Bow-shaped brooches
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Plate brooches
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Penannular brooches
The Migration Period and Roman Influence
During the 5th and 6th centuries, Germanic tribes migrated across Europe, taking their distinctive metalworking styles with them. This era became known as Migration Period Art, characterised by bold colour, animal motifs and intricate decoration.
Roman influence was also strong, introducing advanced techniques such as:
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Filigree
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Enamelling
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Inlay and openwork
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The use of gemstones
Brooches during this time were still functional but increasingly decorative, often inspired by nature and animals.
Anglo-Saxon and Celtic Brooches
The Anglo-Saxon Period
From the 5th century onwards, circular designs became more common. The penannular brooch — an incomplete ring with a long pin — became particularly popular. This short video shows how a traditional penannular brooch is fastened.
Video Credit: YouTube GarbTheWorld channel
This period also saw the introduction of the safety-pin-style clasp, making brooches more secure and wearable.
Celtic Brooches
Celtic artisans were highly skilled, producing beautifully intricate brooches rich in symbolism. Knotwork, animals and interlaced patterns were common, reflecting spiritual and cultural beliefs.
One of the most famous examples is the Tara Brooch, discovered in Ireland in 1850 and dated to around 700 AD. Made from gilt silver with gold filigree, enamel, glass and amber, it is considered one of Ireland’s greatest jewellery treasures.
Medieval Brooches: Meaning Over Function
During the Medieval period, brooches became less about fastening garments and more about symbolism and meaning.
Amulets and Protective Jewellery
Many brooches were worn as amulets, believed to offer protection or good fortune. Pagan symbols, religious imagery and gemstones thought to have protective qualities were common.
By the Late Medieval period, genuine gold and silver were increasingly used, and brooches took on shapes such as:
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Hearts
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Stars
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Pentagons
They were often engraved with inscriptions and gifted as symbols of friendship or love.
Livery Badges and Allegiance
Between 1400 and 1600, brooches were widely used as livery badges, worn to show allegiance to powerful figures. These badges were given to supporters, soldiers or household members and often featured heraldic symbols.
While high-ranking supporters wore finely crafted metal versions, simpler cloth versions were produced for wider distribution — an early example of jewellery as mass communication.
Brooches from 1300 to 1800
Enamelling remained popular, along with gemstones such as:
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Amber
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Topaz
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Diamonds
Religious symbolism dominated jewellery design, and brooches continued to carry deep personal meaning.
Victorian Brooches and Mourning Jewellery
During Queen Victoria’s reign, brooches flourished in popularity. Designs featured flowers, bows, hearts and lockets, often set with pearls or gemstones.
Following the death of Prince Albert, mourning jewellery became fashionable. Mourning brooches were typically subdued in colour and made using materials such as:
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Jet
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Black onyx
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Marcasite
Many contained locks of hair, making them deeply personal keepsakes.
Image Credit: Metropolitan Museum of Art, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
Mourning Brooch. Mourning Pin (MET, 60.113.1)
Artistic Movements and Changing Styles
Art Nouveau
Emerging in the late 19th century, Art Nouveau jewellery rebelled against rigid design. Flowing lines, flowers and feminine forms dominated, with brooches often depicting women with long, flowing hair.
Edwardian Era
Platinum was introduced and used extensively with diamonds. Designs featured garlands, ribbons and swags, reflecting elegance and refinement.
Art Deco
Bold geometry, strong lines and contrasting materials defined Art Deco brooches. Popular materials included:
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Enamel
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Onyx
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Lapis lazuli
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Mother-of-pearl
Modern Brooches and Their Revival
After the Second World War, brooches fell out of favour for several decades. However, they have made a strong comeback in recent years.
Why Brooches Are Popular Again
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Vintage and antique jewellery trends
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Sustainable and heirloom jewellery choices
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Personal, expressive styling
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Gender-neutral fashion
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Celebrity and royal influence
Today, brooches are worn in countless ways — on jackets, dresses, scarves, hats and even as alternatives to ties.
In Summary
From humble beginnings as practical fastenings, brooches have evolved into meaningful, expressive pieces of jewellery. They tell stories of craftsmanship, culture, love, allegiance and identity — which is why they continue to capture our imagination today.
Far from being old-fashioned, brooches remain one of the most versatile and symbolic jewellery pieces you can wear.
FAQs: The History of Brooches
What were brooches originally used for?
Brooches were originally used to fasten clothing before buttons and zips were invented.
What is the oldest type of brooch?
The earliest brooches date back to the Bronze Age and were simple metal pins or fibulae.
Why did people wear mourning brooches?
Mourning brooches were worn to remember loved ones and often contained hair or symbolic materials like jet.
Are antique brooches valuable?
Many antique brooches are valuable due to their craftsmanship, materials and historical significance.
Are brooches fashionable today?
Yes — brooches are enjoying a revival thanks to vintage trends, sustainable fashion and modern styling.
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