Have you noticed Argentium Silver appearing in jewellers’ windows and wondered what it is — or why you haven’t heard of it before?
Is Argentium Silver real silver?
Is it better than sterling silver?
And is it more expensive?
You’re not alone in asking these questions. Argentium Silver is a relatively modern development in jewellery, but it’s quickly gaining recognition for its superior performance, beauty, and low maintenance.
In this guide, we’ll demystify Argentium Silver, explain how it differs from sterling silver, and help you decide whether it’s the right choice for your jewellery.
What Is Argentium Silver?
Argentium Silver is a modern silver alloy that contains more pure silver than traditional sterling silver, along with a small amount of germanium replacing some of the copper normally used in silver alloys.
This change in composition gives Argentium Silver several major advantages:
• Excellent resistance to tarnish
• No firestain during manufacture
• Brighter natural whiteness
• Hypoallergenic and nickel-free
• Lower environmental impact
Because of these benefits, many silversmiths and jewellery designers consider Argentium Silver to be a superior alternative to traditional sterling silver.
When Was Argentium Silver Created?
Argentium Silver was developed in the early 1990s by silversmith and metallurgist Peter Johns at the Art and Design Research Institute (ADRI), Middlesex University, UK.
The breakthrough came when a student asked how to prevent firestain — a persistent problem when working with sterling silver. Through extensive testing, Johns discovered that adding germanium to the silver alloy eliminated firestain entirely.
The result was a new type of silver with dramatically improved working and wearing properties.
How Is Argentium Silver Different from Sterling Silver?
To understand the difference, it helps to look at how traditional silver alloys are made.
Sterling Silver (925)
• 92.5% pure silver
• 7.5% alloy metals (usually copper)
Copper improves strength but causes tarnishing, firestain, and potential skin reactions.
Argentium Silver
Argentium is available in two grades:
Argentium 935
• 93.5% pure silver
• 6.5% alloys including germanium
Argentium 960
• 96% pure silver
• 4% alloys including germanium
Both grades contain more pure silver than sterling silver, and Argentium 960 even exceeds Britannia silver in purity.
Argentium Silver Hallmarks
All precious metals sold in the UK must be hallmarked by an Assay Office.
• Argentium 935 may carry the traditional 925 hallmark, plus the winged unicorn Argentium trademark
• Argentium 960 carries the Britannia 958 hallmark, also accompanied by the winged unicorn
The winged unicorn is the easiest way to identify genuine Argentium Silver.
Does Argentium Silver Tarnish?
One of the most appealing benefits of Argentium Silver is its exceptional tarnish resistance.
Germanium in the alloy forms a transparent protective layer (germanium oxide) when exposed to air. This barrier prevents sulphur and oxygen from reacting with the silver beneath — dramatically slowing tarnish formation.
While no silver is completely tarnish-proof, Argentium requires far less cleaning than sterling silver.
What Is Firestain — and Why Doesn’t Argentium Have It?
Firestain (also called firescale) occurs when sterling silver is heated during manufacture. Oxygen reacts with copper in the alloy, forming copper oxide beneath the surface of the metal.
Removing firestain is time-consuming, labour-intensive, and involves harsh chemicals.
Argentium Silver does not develop firestain, thanks to germanium replacing much of the copper content. This makes it:
• Easier to work with
• More environmentally friendly
• More consistent in colour
Bright Natural Whiteness
Argentium Silver is naturally brighter and whiter than sterling silver — without rhodium plating.
According to CEILAB colour measurements, Argentium’s whiteness rivals or exceeds:
• Sterling silver
• Platinum
• Palladium
• Rhodium-plated metals
Because the whiteness runs through the metal, scratches won’t reveal a darker layer beneath.
Is Argentium Silver Harder Than Sterling Silver?
Yes. Argentium Silver can be heat-hardened at lower temperatures, resulting in:
• Improved durability
• Greater scratch resistance
• Reduced risk of cracking during manufacture
This makes Argentium particularly suitable for rings and everyday jewellery.
Is Argentium Silver Hypoallergenic?
Argentium Silver is:
• Nickel-free
• Lower in copper than sterling silver
• Extremely inert
This makes it an excellent choice for people with sensitive skin or metal allergies.
Environmentally Friendly & Recycled
Argentium Silver is made using recycled silver, with traceable sources. Its firestain-free properties also reduce the need for harsh chemicals during production, making it a more sustainable choice.
Is Argentium Silver More Expensive Than Sterling Silver?
Argentium Silver is usually slightly more expensive than sterling silver due to:
• Higher pure silver content
• Licensing and trademark costs
However, reduced maintenance, longer-lasting finish, and improved durability often make it better value over time.
Is Argentium Silver Widely Used?
Jewellery designers and silversmiths widely recognise Argentium’s advantages. Public awareness is still growing, but availability is increasing — and we’re seeing more Argentium Silver pieces entering the market.
Frequently Asked Questions About Argentium Silver
Is Argentium Silver real silver?
Yes. Argentium Silver is genuine silver with a higher silver content than traditional sterling silver. It is an officially recognised silver alloy and fully hallmarked in the UK.
What is the difference between Argentium Silver and sterling silver?
The main difference is the alloy. Sterling silver uses copper, which causes tarnish and firestain. Argentium Silver replaces some of the copper with germanium, making it brighter, more tarnish-resistant, hypoallergenic, and easier to maintain.
Does Argentium Silver tarnish?
Argentium Silver is highly tarnish-resistant but not completely tarnish-proof. Thanks to the germanium in the alloy, it tarnishes far more slowly than sterling silver and requires much less cleaning.
Is Argentium Silver better for sensitive skin?
Yes. Argentium Silver is nickel-free and contains less copper than sterling silver, making it an excellent choice for people with sensitive skin or metal allergies.
Is Argentium Silver more expensive than sterling silver?
Argentium Silver is usually slightly more expensive due to its higher silver content and licensing costs. However, its durability, low maintenance, and long-lasting brightness often make it better value over time.
How can I tell if jewellery is made from Argentium Silver?
Look for the official hallmark along with the winged unicorn symbol, which identifies genuine Argentium Silver. Argentium 935 may carry a 925 hallmark, while Argentium 960 carries the Britannia 958 hallmark.
Is Argentium Silver environmentally friendly?
Yes. Argentium Silver is made using recycled silver and requires fewer harsh chemicals during manufacture, making it a more environmentally responsible choice than traditional sterling silver.
Is Argentium Silver suitable for everyday jewellery?
Absolutely. Argentium Silver is harder and more scratch-resistant than sterling silver, making it ideal for rings, bracelets, and other everyday jewellery.
Summary: Is Argentium Silver Worth It?
Argentium Silver offers:
✔ Higher purity
✔ Brighter natural colour
✔ Tarnish resistance
✔ Hypoallergenic properties
✔ Eco-friendly credentials
We believe Argentium Silver represents the future of silver jewellery — combining beauty, performance, and practicality.
Leave a comment