Mother of pearl is loved for its soft iridescence and luminous glow — a natural material that feels elegant, calming and timeless. Often seen in jewellery and watch dials, it has a beauty quite unlike any gemstone.
But what is mother of pearl, and how does it differ from pearls?
In this guide, we’ll explain what mother of pearl really is, how it’s formed, why jewellers love it, and how to care for it so it stays beautiful for years to come.
What Is Mother of Pearl?
Mother of pearl is the smooth, iridescent inner lining of certain mollusc shells. Its correct scientific name is nacre.
It forms naturally inside shells such as pearl oysters, abalone and freshwater mussels. This nacre lining has a distinctive soft sheen that reflects light in subtle shades of white, cream, silver and pastel tones.
Because nacre is also the substance that makes up pearls, the two are often confused — but they are not the same thing.
How Is Mother of Pearl Formed?
Mother of pearl forms when a mollusc secretes layers of nacre along the inside of its shell. These layers are made up of microscopic plates of calcium carbonate (aragonite), bound together by a natural protein.
Layer upon layer builds up over time, creating a smooth, protective lining that is both strong and beautiful. The way light interacts with these layers produces mother of pearl’s characteristic iridescence.
Mother of Pearl vs Pearls: What’s the Difference?
Although both are made from nacre, mother of pearl and pearls are formed differently.
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Mother of pearl is the flat inner lining of the shell
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Pearls form when nacre coats a tiny irritant inside the shell, gradually building a rounded shape
This is why pearls are spherical, while mother of pearl is cut into flat sections and used as inlays, backings or decorative surfaces in jewellery and watches.
Why Is Mother of Pearl Used in Jewellery and Watches?
Mother of pearl has long been admired for its gentle luminosity and versatility.
In jewellery, it is often used:
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As a smooth inlay in pendants, earrings and rings
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Behind openwork silver designs
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As a complement to gemstones or marcasite
In watches, mother of pearl dials are especially popular. As the wrist moves, the dial subtly shifts in colour, giving each watch a unique appearance.
No two pieces of mother of pearl are ever exactly alike — part of its natural charm.
👉 Explore our watches with mother of pearl dial here.
Appearance and Colour
Mother of pearl typically appears white or cream with soft flashes of pink, green, blue or silver.
Abalone shell — a related nacre material — produces deeper, darker tones with vivid blues, purples and greens, quite different from the classic pale shimmer of traditional mother of pearl.
Mother of Pearl Meaning and Symbolism
Mother of pearl has long been associated with calm, protection and emotional balance.
Because it comes from the sea, it’s often linked with soothing energy, intuition and gentle strength. Many people are drawn to mother of pearl jewellery for its tranquil feel and natural elegance, making it a meaningful gift as well as a beautiful adornment.
Can You Wear Mother of Pearl Every Day?
Yes — with a little care.
Mother of pearl is softer than gemstones, so it’s best suited to:
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Earrings
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Pendants
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Watch dials
Rings and bracelets can be worn regularly, but they may need more care due to everyday knocks and contact with surfaces.
How to Care for Mother of Pearl Jewellery
Mother of pearl is delicate and should be treated gently.
To keep it looking its best:
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Avoid contact with perfumes, hairspray and cosmetics
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Do not use jewellery cleaning dips or ultrasonic cleaners
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Clean only with a soft, dry cloth
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Store separately from harder jewellery to prevent scratches
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Avoid prolonged exposure to heat or direct sunlight
Mother of pearl ranks around 3.5 on the Mohs hardness scale, meaning it can scratch more easily than gemstones.
How Can You Tell If Mother of Pearl Is Real?
Real mother of pearl has:
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A soft, layered iridescence rather than a flat shine
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Slight natural variation in colour and pattern
If in doubt, a reputable jeweller will always be able to confirm authenticity.
Frequently Asked Questions about Mother of Pearl
Is mother of pearl a gemstone?
No. Mother of pearl is an organic material formed inside mollusc shells, rather than a mineral gemstone formed in the earth.
Does mother of pearl come from pearls?
No. Pearls and mother of pearl are both made from nacre, but mother of pearl is the shell lining, while pearls form separately around an irritant.
Is mother of pearl expensive?
Mother of pearl is generally more affordable than natural pearls, though value varies depending on quality, colour and craftsmanship.
Can mother of pearl get wet?
It’s best to avoid water where possible. Prolonged exposure to moisture can dull its surface over time.
Is mother of pearl suitable for sensitive skin?
Yes. Mother of pearl is natural and generally very well tolerated by sensitive skin.
To Sum Up
Mother of pearl is a naturally formed, organic material prized for its luminous beauty and gentle character. While closely related to pearls, it has its own distinct appearance and uses in jewellery and watches.
Elegant, calming and endlessly wearable, mother of pearl remains a timeless choice — whether you’re drawn to its natural origins, its symbolism, or simply its understated beauty.
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